Dichotomy is a quality which at once describes the very nature of every human being on God's green earth. Take the ability of an artist and consider that in capturing dichotomy in their work they become beloved. Nevertheless, man cannot serve two masters, so perhaps that is why we find it vulgar when the dichotomy of a thing or an individual or a corporation is thrust into our faces, where we attempt to describe it as hypocritical. You must either love the one and hate the other, or vice versa. It is with this philosophical treaty that I endeavor to express to you our tumultuous feelings about Milan, and perhaps bring you to understand why it has taken us so long to write about it.
The awe inspired by each of our "tourist" destinations is a sharp contrast to the chagrin felt in travelling between each of these destinations. In most of our destinations thus far, the "trinket peddlers" have been prevalalent but not worth the mention, as they are easily passed by with a smile and a "no thank you." Milan's trinket peddlers, however, seem to reflect the city's self importance and arrogance, such that on more than one occasion we had to run away for fear of being physically accosted. This is in accord with the booth operators, peddlers, and other merchants, who at once seemed to be disgusted at the presence of such an ugly tourist and determined to abide them until every last penny was wrung from their pockets. All this in a city which seemed more akin to walking through downtown Atlanta than anything that should be in Italy.
However, the moments in between are so memorable that they almost beg forgiveness of the city's faults, and it is easy to pick out only the awe inspiring memories which left us in good spirits, as so often happens. In such cases, we were sure that we had stepped into a fairy tale. After check in on our first night, we happened upon a small pizza shop. So crowded was this pizza shop, with its singing chef and brick oven right at the door, that patrons spilled out into the street while waiting for a table. And after 45 minutes of waiting (on a Tuesday at 9, no less!), we discovered why: this shop (Trattoria Maruzzella) cooks the best pizza in the world! As we ate our best pizza in the world, serenaded by a Super Mario-esque chef, time seemed to stand still.
Follow this up with a few hours in the Duomo (yes, Milan has one too). The Milan Duomo in size rivals St. Peters Basillica (the second to do so, by the way. The other was in Florence), such that you would think that you were stepping into a gothic St. Peters. Enormous stained glass windows, altars, chapels, and of course, the world famous statue of St. Bartholomew. Bartholomew was purportedly skinned alive, and this statue depicts the saint after the fact, wearing his skin like a robe. It is at once elegant and grotesque, and wholly fascinating, such that I don't believe that pictures can do it justice. This statue, of course, only adds to the ambiance of a church which makes one feel humbled by its grand nature.
Enter thereafter Castello Sforzesco (good luck saying that three times fast). Although heavily rebuilt because of bombings from WWII, and previous heavy military use, it still very much feels like a place where nobility would live. Now, however, the rooms have been turned into museums, one of which, the Pinacotecca, houses Michelangelo's last work, the Rodanina Pieta. From there, the back of the castle opens into the most comforting and well kept park that we have happened upon recently. Quite expansive, there is enough room for hundreds of bikers and runners and ball players, a stream, and several restaurants, while at the same time you feel as though you can get absolute privacyin an instant by walking off of the path.
Although this is nowhere near the end of our adventures -these include the pinacoteca de brera, the best risotto alla Milanese in Milan, and our new friends found at dinner - we still can't help but battle with our mixed emotions about this city. Perhaps we are simply spoiled by the bevy of perfect experiences that we have had in our other cities. Or, maybe we are being too harsh. Either way, Milan left us with experiences which we shall not soon forget, regardless of whether or not we ever decide to return.
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