Post #27: When I'm 90...

The last 24 hours have been a relief, as if someone pushed "pause" on the on our "go-go-go" and dropped us back at home for a little while.
We have extremely close and generous friends in Kentucky, Collin and Caroline, who have a house available to them in Grafing, Germany, which is about a 40-ish minute train ride outside of Munich. From the first time we shared with them our plans to travel Europe, Collin insist the we stay at the house with his aunt, who stays in the house during the summer months. "You have to visit Grafing, you have to. You're going to love it," Collin would tell us. So it became part of our plan.
We were a little nervous as we pulled into Grafing Stadt station. We really wanted his aunt, Ludmilla, to like us, but we were not sure what to expect. We were informed that she is age 90, but very lively. "Just take her a bottle of white wine, and you'll be in good," Collin instructed. So armed with TWO bottles of Venetian white wine, our best smiles, and all of luggage we waited to be picked up on the platform. Yes, Ludmilla was driving to pick us up.
She pulled into the station parking lot honking and waving... her smile takes up her whole face. She literally hopped out of the car, and swept us up into full embrace. It was so, so welcoming. "Hello, hello! It's so good to meet you!" Immediately we were at ease...
We'll arrived at a house, with stairs and a kitchen. Someone lived there! It was so good to be in a HOME, not a hotel or inn or B&B. We settled in, and then Drew and I ventured out. Venturing out is what we always do after settling in. Except, in Grafing, there isn't anything to venture to really. We saw the castle, had lunch at the local brauhaus, and walked almost the whole town in about an hour.
Here there are no tourist traps or souvenir shops or tours or crowds. Real Germans lived here without being inundated with Western culture. During our lunch we had to play charades to order, there was no English. It was awesome. We sat down in a park and actually read our books for almost 2 hours... we strolled. We talked about topics other than our vacation. We had dinner at a kitchen table! We did laundry and the dishes! We sat in a living room and had conversation! It was so, so good!

Ludmilla amazed us. She was definitely not 90, she couldn't have been. She was up and moving. She cooked dinner, she carried the conversation with her stories, she kept filling our wine glasses when we weren't looking...

Her memory, her physical health and capabilities, her daily activities were all habits of a woman much younger than her. She was perfectly bilingual...

During dinner she took a phone call. She came back to the table telling us who was on the phone just talking on and on... but in German! "Ludmilla wait wait! You are speaking in German! We can't understand!" She paused and crinkled her brow then burst into laughter. "I wondered why you two had gotten so quiet," she exclaimed. We were a "disappointment" to her, however. Apparently, Collin neglected to give any description of us to her, so she also had no idea what to expect. "Instead of the nice, quiet elderly couple I was expecting I got you two," she teased. Oh we all had the best time. I already can't wait until next time.

Post # 26: Tales From Venice

ooooooyyy....Venzia!

The haunting cry of the gondolier can be heard wafting over the Grand Canal of Venice as the moon hangs high overhead. In the days of the libertine, it inspired many an artist - from Vivaldi to Paganini to Titian (Pronounced Ti-shun) to Wagner - with its haunting woe. During the days of the libertine, Venice was as Vegas is: it was Sin City, where anything goes, and the pursuit of pleasure was king. And, although outlawed, the use of masks were at one point so common that they were worn out at night year-round. However, behind that seemed to be a sorrow that words could not express, as if the city itself were groaning for some normalcy.

While normalcy would come for Venetians, as the libertines are no more, the beauty of this marvelous city springs forth, as if by magic, making it anything but normal to us. It is restful; the whole point is to get lost in the city, and appreciate the quiet comfort of being surrounded by water and a lazy sun (rather than attack the touristy areas). In fact, getting lost was recommended to us. "Get lost, find a small trattoria and eat some good food, and just experience Venice." "Walk over the canal bridges while the buildings shade you from the Sun, and listen to the chatter of the workers taking their long afternoon break."

We did as told. And it was marvelous. Never have we felt so arrived as getting lost in Venezia.

For this reason (and several others) we are declaring Venice our vacation within a vacation. Our B&B was exquisite, and Marco, the host, took very good care of us, including serving us breakfast. We ventured out in the afternoon and into the evening, picking different experiences for each day. Our first evening, we went to a play (the best show in town we were told) where we made friends with the bartender; enjoyed a complementary documentary on the city; and then experience a journey through the history and making of Venice through the play simply titled Venezia. The second day brought about an excursion to the island of Murano (affectionately called the 'glass island'), where we saw Murano glass blown, explored the history of Murano glass, and took a nap in a secluded garden.

We went to a Venetian beach on the island of Lido on day three, and were able to stay soaking up for a good 6 hours. In between those adventures, we got lost on the island, peeking our heads into basilicas and chiesas, stopping at street vendors, and in general loving the slowness of our vacation within a vacation.

I think that Venice still has the capability to inspire great art in our generation. But it isn't something built out of woe, and certainly nothing out of tragedy. Rather, if possible, it inspires joy and restfullness, and a sense of well being. Then again, they say that good art is borne from a tourtured soul. If this is so than these artists should stick to the Piazza San Marco, where they can be tortured by swarms of tourists and 100s of pigeons. That poor, expensive square is the only remotely "tortuted" place on the island. 

For those who can work by being inspired by beauty or simplicity, you can settle at a cafe on any corner. Or stroll and stare (as we did) at the remarkable collection pieced together at the Goggenheim museum. There a few greats such as Picasso, Pollock, Dali, Ernst, Chirico, and others are sharing wall space...

Needless to say we are sad to leave Venice behind. It's a good thing Munich promises so much...

;)

Drew and Nicole

Post # 25: When in Rome...

TheColosseum, ArcoDiConstantine, RomanForum, PalantineHill, ForiImperiali, ChiesaDiSanPietroInVincolo, CircusMaximus, ThePantheon, Piazza Navona, PiazzaDelPopolo, FontanaDiTrevi, PiazzaDiSpagna, The SpanishSteps, St.PetersBasilica, VaticanMuseums, PiazzaDiSanPietro, IsolaTibernia, GiancoloHill, ChiesaDiSantaMariaTravastere, BasilicaDiSantaMariaMaggiore, GalleriaBorghese, PortaPia, BascilicaDiSanGiovanniInLaterno, TheGiantFountain...

(let me pause for a breath)

Pizza, Pane, Spaghetti, Spaghetti alla Carbonara, FetucinniAlfredo, Rigattone, Ciacolata, Gelato, Panini, CacioEPepe, CarciofioAllaGiula, Armiciano, VinoDellaCasa, Bucatini, Antipasti, Primi, Secondi, Krunz, Risoto, Tramezzini, Lasagna, GnochiAllaBourguignonne, Insalata, FioreDiZucchini, MozzarellaDiBuffala...

So what exactly do the Romans do? When we first arrived in Roma Termini, the stars were in our eyes instantly, and we wanted to see the typical vision of a Roman, which is of course a well dressed person on a Vespa laughing, hair waving in the wind, ans they wisp down the streets. Let me be clear, that is what they do; but what is the true essence of being a Roman? What do the Romans do?

After the stars left our eyes, we realized how different this city is from the others that we have visited. Here, rather than the modern human clearly trying to preserve and hold up the ancient relics of history (which I don't think is bad at all), it seems that real life, modern life, or any semblance of our current humanity, is encroaching on the very essence of our past. The rough and most uneven cobblestone streets beg to be forgiven of the burden of thousands of cars that they carry on a daily basis.  At every turn, one is presented with a new relic, old building, or ancient statue; there are so many of these, in fact, that they can't possibly all be on the map, and yet each one would be the treasure of any other city. New developments are constantly halted by the unearthing of some new archeological site, such that houses frequently have half dug basements as the result of running in to some sort of ruin that may be of significance. There is no neon lighting here, no Starbucks (what!!!), and only a penance of McDonalds.

These are all good things, though. In fact, they are quintessentially Roman. If you take a minute and dive down a side street in Travastere, you can find restaurants where the English-speak is sparse, but the food is good enought to make your toes curl, and cheap to boot (try 18 dollars for a full meal for two people). They don't need neon or newness here. They need time to enjoy all of these things. They need good food and conversation. They need cramped quarters in heat which would make a Georgian break down.

So what do the Romans do? They enjoy good food and cheap wine. They go on strike, which I believe that they do so that the common workers can enjoy the city; it's your bad luck if it happens to be your holiday. They see monuments everywhere. They are devout Catholics. They are experts in fine art, clothes, and fashion. To do like a Roman does, I think you would need a lifetime. But boy, we had a blast trying to fit a lifetime into four days.

All of the things listed above we either did or tried to do, or ate or tried to eat. While absolutely exhausting, it was perhaps the most amazing experience of the trip. No matter where we go, we have a perfect view of something beautiful. Italian villas with vines growing down the side all the way to the Pantheon. What can you do but spend the day roaming the streets, and then sit down at a cafe for some cacio e pepe? We tried our best, and I think we may have come close: while in Rome, we did as the Romans do.

Drew and Nicole

Post# 24 Vatican City: 3rd Time's a Charm

Checking into our B&B in Roma lead to an amazing discovery- we are less than 200 meters from the holy Vatican  City. We have a view of the walls and the museum entrance from our balcony. After settling in, we decide our first Roman escapade would be to this famed "city" within the city. So we trek out...

We are greeted by the warm embrace of Piazza Di San Pietro. No really... the architect Bernini designed this huge square to evoke the feeling of being hugged in the arms of Christ. We agree that he achieved his goal, as we are both stunned, feeling simultaneously small YET welcomed.

We see a (relatively short) line formed, and investigate. Those individuals were seeking entrance to Basilica S. Pietro. We fall in. What better way to start one's Roman holiday than to take in one of the wolrd's most grand and beautiful cathedrals?

We make it through security easy, and within minutes of being in line. This allows us to start our ascent up to the large, column supported arch ways. We are smiling, taking pictures, getting closer and closer...

"Senora... Senora... no entry. Preggo! No Entry!" Confused and slightly annoyed, I turned to the security guard. Yep. He is talking to me. He is playing charades... 2 words. First word, NO! Got that one. Second word... No...something... He's chopping off his waist. Hhhhhmmmm.... no legs??? That doesn't make sense; lots of people with legs are going in. WAIT! No shorts! Ah, no shorts. That makes more sense. WAIT! No shorts;  but I am wearing shorts.

Disappointment. We are turned away from the church. I knew it was too easy. Attempt #1 = fail.

Next morning we wake... arrive at Vatican City properly dressed and early. Again, we have great timing at Saint Peter's. It takes us 10 minutes to get through everything, including the dress-code policia. We are IN! We strut to the tour guide office to get our free audio guide...

"10 Euros, per favora, Senora." 10 Euros??? Clearly, we have been in germantic cities for too long; the audio guides have been free in our last 5 cities. Plus, the church is free. So I repeat, 10 Euros????

We hand him our credit card. "Sadly, Senora, only cash." You've got to be kidding me. We walk away from the guide desk empty handed. It's okay, we think. We can read. And we did... pretty much ever plaque in Saint Peter's. It was good, but we both know we missed A LOT. In addition, we find out that the Vatican City is entirely cash only. We have 3 Euros... Attempt #2 = fail.

On morning #3, we make our now ritualistic pilgrimage to Vatican City. We are properly dresses. We have 50 Euros. We are ready.

Again, almost no wait. Again we pass all security and dress code requirements. We are able to rent a guide. Victory is ours! We spend 2.5 gloriously guided hours in the Basilica learning everything we can about every relic, decoratiob, and monument in there. Story after story, chaple after chaple we move our way through. Twice we have to be told not to sit on the floor... But we had a lot of staring to do; too much really for standing. We admired Michaelangelo's dome above Saint Peter's tomb for ages... Everythingin there was created or constructed with purpose.

And then we venture into the crypt.... and stood next to pillars of the original Saint Peter's Basilica commissioned by Constantine himself in the 400th century. Yes, 400th. No joke, real life has become quite surreal these past few weeks...

Antagonist, we'll save the rest of Roma for another post. I'm just thankful that the 3rd times a charm.

Post # 23: Schonbrunn

What we have heard from all of the locals in Vienna thus far is that a trip here is not complete without seeing the Schonbrunn Palace. Schonbrunn is to Vienna what Versailles is to Paris: a huge palace on the outskirts of the city whose ornate decorations are only rivaled by its expansive gardens. In addition, though, we are told that eating at a cafe on the grounds is a must, as the view during your meal is unparalleled. With this in mind, we pack our bags and set out for the subway.

History tells us that Vienna's beloved empress is Maria Theresa, mother of Marie Antoinette. Not only was she a wise ruler, but she practically made the Schonbrunn palace what it is today, with all of its grandeur and spectacle. In this sense, she was the parallel to King Louis XIV, the Sun King, in both influence and period (both were on the throne in their respective countries at about the same time). Thus, as we sit at our first cafe in the courtyard and have some breakfast, we note that Schonbrunn is reminiscent of the Palace of Versailles.

After breakfast we immerse ourselves in more of the history of the castle with a tour. The Hapsburg dynasty is quite interesting in that they only just recently lost the throne in 1918, when Carl II lost WWI. Until that time, the power of this dynasty had been extended quite far, with their influence being felt in nearly every country through either marriage or war. However, unlike the prototypical aristocrats, these Hapsburgs were workaholics. One, Franz Josef, would rise at 5 every day and take breakfast and lunch at his desk. This is perhaps why their empire lasted so long compared to the French, whose monarchy ended with Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI.

With the gardens, the palace tour, the labyrinth, and lunch, we wind up spending all day on the grounds of Schonbrunn, and we had a blast. The views from the gloriette, the gardens that you cab get lost in, and the Neptune pool that you can soak your weary feet in make this day quite full. We leave a little before our train departs, and have dinner at the 1516 brewery, which is a favorite among locals. After striking up some conversation, we head back to the station just in time to catch our train and our first private sleeper. Tomorrow, Rome awaits.

Drew and Nicole